Tuesday, March 19, 2013

Stonehenge, Bath, and "Secret Places" Tour

LOCATION:

Wiltshire, Bath, Lacock, and Avebury, England

 

Though I spent about four months in London many (12? Yikes!) years ago, I never managed to visit Stonehenge so I made it a priority when planning this trip. This tour sounded fun, and while I was skeptical about the "secret places" part, they turned out to be some of the most interesting!

 

The first stop on the tour was Stonehenge. While the guide did a great job explaining everything he knew about the monument, there are still just so many unanswered questions about the site. I did not do much research prior to my visit, so I learned a lot during the trip. Stonehenge is one of the oldest landmarks, and is estimated to date back to 3000 BC - an interesting contrast to see was people holding up iPads and cell phones to take pictures of it. The heaviest stones weigh up to 50 tons, and there is no record of why or how it was constructed. Were the stones dragged? Did they float to the site on rafts? How did they get the heavy stones up on top? So many mysteries!!

 

The ropes keeping people away actually make it easier to take great pictures!

 

All of the mysteries surrounding Stonehenge have resulted in so many theories about why it was constructed - religious ceremonies, ritual burials, astronomical connections, aliens, etc., and it attracts all kinds of visitors. Unfortunately because of damage like graffiti (our guide told us in the 70s they sold little chisels so you could chip off a piece as a souvenir!) visitors are kept behind ropes and can only admire the stones from afar. There is one day every year though - summer solstice - when you can walk up into the stones, and thousands of people camp out overnight to party and celebrate the longest day of the year. The site still attracts some religious zealots - we saw one man in a cape walking around with a wizards staff - but we learned most are harmless and are only too happy to share their theories with you.

That nub on the top of the far stone was probably some kind of socket, holding another stone in place.

 

I took about a hundred pictures, it is one of the coolest things I have ever seen!

 

After Stonehenge, we continued driving through the English countryside to Bath. Bath is home to Britain's only natural hot spring, so has been a popular destination for centuries. Up until relatively recently visitors could swim in the original Roman baths, but a deadly case of meningitis closed them to the public in 1978. Rumor has it the town campaigned to change its name to something other than Bath, because for over thirty years there were no baths in Bath. A new facility was built and reopened a few years ago though, which is more like a spa than anything else. The new facility was a public project, and was completed six years late and three times over budget. The town had to raise taxes to fund the project, so many Bath residents are quite resentful of the space.

 

The original baths can still be seen through a window in a restaurant called The Pump Room.

 

We were able to taste the water (it is pure and safe!) - it was warm and kind of metallic tasting.

 

The new facility is up on the roof surrounded by glass walls - very modern looking.

 

We also had a walking tour of the town, and it was so beautiful! I was surprised to learn that it was bombed several times during WWII - not because of any industry or military connections - but simply because it was beautiful. The British bombed several beautiful places in Germany, thinking it would cause morale to drop and people would want to stop fighting, but it only resulted in retaliation, including the bombing of Bath.

 

One of the famous streets, some say the middle house was an inspiration for the White House.

 

Such a pretty town, I would love to spend a few days here.

 

After Bath we headed off to secret place number one, which turned out to be a place called Lacock. Lacock is a tiny village that was given to the National Trust (a conservation organization) because estate owners could not afford to maintain their houses during WWII. The village is almost completely untouched by signs of modern life - no paint on the streets, no telephone wires - the only way you can tell you are in 2013 is from the cars parked in front of some of the buildings. Because it is such an untouched site it has become a popular set for period movies and shows, which brings in revenue to help maintain the village. Apparently the Harry Potter house is here, but I have never seen any of the movies so that bit of trivia was lost on me.

 

People live here! Only rentals though, and relatively cheap at 500£ per month.

 

People here must have been short - all the doors were this height.
One of my favorite pictures of the day!

 

After Lacock, we headed off to secret place number two, which turned out to be Avebury. Having never heard of Avebury before, I was surprised to learn it was another prehistoric stone circle, and was actually much larger than Stonehenge. Avebury henge is thought to have been constructed before Stonehenge, but again is so mysterious. The cool thing about Avebury though, is that you can walk right up through the stones, and we were the only visitors! The stone circle is so large, there is even a pub inside of it. The pub is said to be very haunted, and has recently drawn guests like Bono and Bon Jovi.

Also very beautiful, especially at sunset.

It was cool to get right up next to the stones.

 

The haunted Red Lion! Notice the thatched roof?

 

We didn't stay long enough to find out if the pub was really haunted, we started the drive back to London before dark. Though the day was long - over 12 hours - it turned out to be one of the best yet. It was also my first solo tourist experience this trip, which was a little unnerving at first because I was the only person who had signed up for the tour alone. Having the common bond of a guided tour made it easy to talk to people though, and I met people from Japan, Australia, and all over the United States! Tour success!

 

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